Why regional food identity runs so deep
Food identity is rarely about what food each state actually produces. Research out of Michigan State University’s Department of Agricultural, Food, and Resource Economics has found that the food people identify as being central to their state’s identity are usually vastly different from what that state’s economy was built on. They also found that consumers will pay more for foods tied to that identity regardless of whether their state’s local production was involved.
Mississippi leads the country in farm-raised catfish production, for instance, but has no official dish tied to it. And New Mexico built their entire civic identity around a single pepper. In 1996, the state legislature made “Red or Green?” the official question of the state, asking people their chile preference. It is the only such designation in the entire country.
Every state approaches their local favorites differently. Some have legal ties to their food and others don’t, but the one constant across the board is that state residents vehemently defend their food of choice.
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Data methodology explainer
To identify each state’s dish of choice for arguments, Spokeo combined Google Trends data on each specific food search with USDA Economic Research Service figures on regional food spending and consumption patterns. This data was then cross-referenced against published academic research on food and regional identity, including social media engagement surrounding pride of food.
In order to narrow down the actual legal standing for state foods, legislative records for official food designation were checked. The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office records for trademarks and certification marks were also referenced, along with the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service for federal marketing order.
A dish only counts as being legally protected if a trademark, certification, or marketing order restricts who can use its name. If it’s named in statute, it simply means a state has designated it as an official symbol without any enforceable restrictions. Anything else is just a cultural claim with no legal ties whatsoever.
What your state fights about versus what it can actually prove
Twenty states can actually point to something as being an official food, whether through statute or legal enforcement, while the rest have nothing officially tied to the food at all.
The takeaway is clear: Legal defensibility and cultural intensity are not highly correlated, meaning residents of a state choosing to fight for a dish says almost nothing about its true state significance.
One of the more interesting findings comes from Pennsylvania. They don’t have anything on the books at all and have never codified a single word about Philly cheesesteak despite there being decades of Pat’s-vs.-Geno’s mythology fueling a great food rivalry.
Ohio is another interesting case. They have an official beverage in tomato juice, but absolutely zero legal claim to Cincinnati chili, which is one of the most argued dishes of all time.
The three marquee rivalries
Residents across the country are proud of their food, that much is true. However, there are three cases and rivalries that stand out:
1. Cincinnati chili (Ohio) — Culture Only, and Proud of It
Cincinnati chili has no state law backing it up. It’s purely a cultural fondness, but perhaps that’s what makes it so well known. Over the decades, countless restaurants have competed to perfect their chili.
The debate had a spotlight shined on it in 2026 when Cincinnati-based Fifth Third Bank acquired Texas-based Comerica, resulting in the mixture of two chili cultures. The CEO of Fifth Third has stated himself that it’s created something of a fun internal civil war among employees about which chili is better. No statute has settled it, and it doesn’t appear one ever will.
2. Red vs. green chile (New Mexico) — The One State That Legislated Its Argument
New Mexico accomplished what no other state has: They turned cultural defense into law. When their official state question was drafted and ratified in 1996, it provided legal backing to food choice. Beyond the symbolism itself, New Mexico’s chili labeling law gave the claim real teeth by restricting which peppers could be marketed as New Mexico chile.
3. Old Bay vs. J.O. seasoning (Maryland) — Trademark Pride, Kitchen Reality
Old Bay is a seasoning that many Americans know. One may even notice it tattooed onto calves and stocked heavily in Maryland grocery stores. However, per an Associated Press report, a number of regional crab houses actually season their crabs with J.O. No. 2, which is a smaller, family-run company. The trademark protection belongs to Old Bay, but the kitchen habit belongs to J.O., creating a unique rivalry in the state.
What this says about American identity
These 50 entries all show that food pride and legal recognition run on different tracks. States pass legislation where it’s easy, but the foods people actually argue about are often too contested or too regional to do anything about. New Mexico stands as the only exception, proving that if a food argument is important enough to put into law, it will be. Everywhere else, the fight remains a matter of debate.
This story was produced by Spokeo and reviewed and distributed by Stacker.